Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
